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Climbing the Matterhorn and an Unplanned Bivy   Aug 28–30, 2008

Matterhorn via Hörnli ridge

Peter and I went to Switzerland to climb in the Wallis region of the Western Alps for a week. We had spent a few days in the Saas valley and had climbed Weissmies (4023 m) via the normal route and Lagginhorn (4010 m) via the South ridge. We were throwing around ideas as to what to climb next. Possible candidates where Dom or Lenzspitze. But since neither of us had climbed the famous Matterhorn (4478 m) and since the weather forecast for the next couple of days called for sunny, stable weather we talked about it. Well, the Matterhorn is quite the mountain but it is also said to be overcrowded with people. Route finding up the Hörnli ridge is difficult and there are frequent accidents. But then again, sooner or later one has to climb it... ...more



Peru   Jul 1–Aug 17, 2008



Annapurna-Tilicho Trekking with Chulu Far East climb   Oct 19–Nov 11, 2007

Tilicho Lake Southern Campsite


Ortler via Hintergrat   Jun 23–24, 2007

Ortler via Hintergrat: Claus-Dieter on the Hintergrat

Claus-Dieter and I climbed Ortler (3905 m, 12811 ft), the highest peak in Southern Tyrol (Italy), via the famous Hintergrat ridge. The Hintergrat is a fairly exposed ridge that ascends the mountain from the east. It is a very scenic and popular route that is a bit more difficult than the normal route. I had been itchy to climb it since I returned to Europe and when the weather forecast looked good and the Hintergrat hut had opened for the season Claus-Dieter and I gave it a go. ...more



Jubiläumsgrat ridge traverse in winter   Feb 24–25, 2007

Jubiläumsgrat: Daniel marching out along the ridge

The Jubiläumsgrat ("Jubigrat") is the ridge that connects the Zugspitze (2962 m), Germany's highest mountain, with the Alpspitze (2620 m). Being one of the famous ridges in the Eastern Alps, it is often climbed during summer and -- less frequently -- in winter. The route had been on my tick list since I moved to Munich 2 years ago.

As weather and avalanche conditions are critical, I was monitoring the mountain weather forecast during the last few weeks looking for a good weather window. That window came this past weekend with a stable forecast until Sunday afternoon and a low avalanche level.

Michael and I left Munich at 6am on Saturday morning for Garmisch-Partenkirchen. We were aiming for the 7:30 gondola from Eibsee to the top of the Zugspitze. ...more



Late October climbing in the Dolomites   Oct 28–29, 2006

Grohmannspitze: Michael climbing up a steeper pitch.

Michael and I wanted to do one last alpine climb for the season. For the northern Alps the weather forecast wasn't great, but for the southern Alps it was much better. So the initial idea was to climb the Campanile Basso in the Brenta group of the Italian Dolomites. But since it was already late October, gondolas had stopped running and the huts had shut down for the season leaving us worried about logistics, long approaches, and about being able to get enough drinking water. So instead Michael suggested the Langkofel group with short approaches and long and interesting alpine climbs. ...more



USA trip 2006   Aug 24–Sep 13, 2006



Barre des Ecrins   Jul 13–14, 2006

Barre des Ecrins: clouds moving over the summit ridge

After climbing in the southern Monte Rosa with the traverse of Lyskamm as the highlight, we still had a few more days before we needed to head back to Munich. A few options where discussed, among them Rochefort ridge traverse with Dent du Geant in the Mont Blanc region. However, for this a rope team of three is not ideal. So Rainer suggested to climb Barre des Ecrins in the Dauphine region in southern France instead. Barre des Ecrins (4101 m) is the southern most 4000m peak in the Alps. After some discussions we had a plan: We would climb to Refuge des Ecrins on the first day, summit and hike out on the second day, and drive back to Munich on the third day. ...more



Climbing in the Southern Monte Rosa Group   Jul 8–12, 2006

Lyskamm ridge traverse and Castor: Rainer on the ridge traverse from Lyskamm East to Lyskamm West summit with big cornice; in the background from left to right: Dent d'Herens, Matterhorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Cornier, and Obergabelhorn

Claus-Dieter, Rainer, and I spent a few days climbing in the southern Monte Rosa group in the Wallis with the ridge traverse of Lyskamm as the highlight. After that we headed further west into the Dauphine where we climbed Barre des Ecrins. ...more



Approach to the Rifugio Gnifetti   Jul 8, 2006



Ludwigshöhe, Parrotspitze, etc   Jul 9, 2006

Ludwigshoehe, Parrotspitze, etc: ascending Parrotspitze, Lyskamm East summit in the background

Before spending a night at the Rifugio Regina Margherita (4554 m) we wanted to be properly acclimatized. Therefore the plan for this day was to ascend to the area south of Dufourspitze, to climb a bunch of the small 4000 m peaks, and to return to the Rifugio Gnifetti. There we would spend another night. ...more



Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe   Jul 10, 2006

Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe: looking west before sunset: Lyskamm, Dent d'Herens, Matterhorn, Dent Blanche

This was to be another not very demanding day. Our objective was to climb to the Rifugio Regina Margherita (4554 m) that sits on top of the Signalkuppe and is Europe's highest staffed hut.

We were getting used to late "alpine" starts since it must have been close to 8:30am when we climbed down the rock outcropping from the Rifugio Gnifetti to the glacier where we roped up. We trotted up the glacier passing Lysjoch and all the little 4000er peaks that we had climbed the day before and finally reached the plateau between Signalkuppe and Zumsteinspitze, called Colle Gnifetti. ...more



Lyskamm ridge traverse and Castor   Jul 11, 2006

Lyskamm ridge traverse and Castor: Claus-Dieter on the Lyskamm east ridge; looking back toward Parrotspitze, Ludwigshoehe, Corno Nero, Balmenhorn, and Piramide Vincent (from left to right)

Lyskamm (or Liskamm) is an impressive double-peak in the southern Monte Rosa group on the border between Italy and Switzerland.

The traverse of Lyskamm is one of the famous ridge traverses in the Alps and was to be the highlight of our climbing trip. ...more



Alpspitze via KG-Weg and Höllentalklamm   Jun 18, 2006



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