Alpamayo & Huascaran
2012
In June of 2012 I spent 4 weeks trekking and climbing in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The main objective of the trip was climbing Alpamayo (5947 m/19511 ft), one of the world's most iconic mountains, and Huascaran (6746 m/22132 ft), Peru's highest peak. Before tackling these two high peaks we climbed Maparaju (5326 m/17473 ft) for acclimatization and -- as dessert -- Vallunaraju (5780 m/18963 ft).
Panoramas Alpamayo climb
Hiker on top of a high moraine with Lake Jancarurish and Tayapampa (5675 m) before reaching Alpamayo's northern base camp.
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After setting up camp at Alpamayo's northern base camp we practiced jumaring and rappelling for the upcoming climb of Alpamayo (5947 m).
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Alpamayo's northern base camp is beautifully located at an elevation of 4533 m with great views of the surrounding peaks like Santa Cruz (6241 m).
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This panorama was taken on a small pass just before we dropped down toward the glacier and Alpamayo's northern moraine camp. The pyramidal peak is Alpamayo (5947 m), the peaks just to the left are Jankarurish (5601 m), and Tayapampa (5675 m).
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Panorama with Tayapampa (5675 m), Jankarurish (5601 m), and Alpamayo (5947 m) (hidden in the clouds). This was taken just before reaching Alpamayo's northern moraine camp.
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Panorama taken at Alpamayo's northern moraine camp with Tayapampa (5675 m), Jankarurish (5601 m), and Alpamayo (5947 m).
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Beautiful sunset at Alpamayo's northern moraine camp with Tayapampa (5675 m), Jankarurish (5601 m), and Alpamayo (5947 m).
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The sun sets quick in Peru. Last light at Alpamayo's northern moraine camp with Tayapampa (5675 m), Jankarurish (5601 m), and Alpamayo (5947 m)..
View from the small pass between Alpamayo (5947 m) and Quitaraju (6036 m) where the southern approach route joins. Below Alpamayo is the high camp site.
Climbers rappelling on their way down the mountain at the small pass between Alpamayo (5947 m) and Quitaraju (6036 m) where the southern approach route joins.
Alpamayo's high camp just before sunset with Alpamayo (5947 m) and Quitaraju (6036 m) dominating the skyline.
Blue hour with Alpamayo (5947 m) and Alpamayo's high camp.
Alpamayo (5947 m) summit panorama. After getting up at 3:30am and climbing the 500m high French Direct route (all the while being peppered with ice chunks set off by climbers above) everybody reached the summit. After summit celebrations a looong rappel brought us back down to high camp for a well deserved rest.
Panoramas Huascaran climb
Huascaran's first high camp just before sunset with Huascaran (6768 m).
Huascaran's second high camp is located just below 6000 m on the pass between Huascaran Norte (6664 m) and Huascaran Sur (6768 m).
Panorama Vallunaraju climb
Vallunaraju (5780 m) summit panorama with Roger looking down.